Design in line with The EU Green Deal

With these words, Isabel Turesson, Sustainability Manager at Pinewood, sets the tone for a new era in the textile industry. The EU Green Deal is more than just a new set of regulations – it marks a fundamental shift in how we produce, consume, and take responsibility for our products. This transformation demands deeper collaboration, greater transparency, and a stronger focus on circular flows.

In this article, Isabel explains what the EU Green Deal means, how it will affect the textile industry at large – and how Pinewood is actively adapting to meet the requirements, reduce environmental impact, and build a long-term brand.


What is the EU Green Deal?

The European Green Deal is the EU’s roadmap to becoming climate-neutral by 2050. The goal is to transition from a linear to a circular economy, and achieving this requires companies to make green transitions. The Green Deal can be seen as a framework with directives that help us move forward in climate action.

The consumption of textiles in Europe has the fourth-largest environmental and climate impact – after food, housing, and transport. A separate and high-priority textile strategy has therefore been developed.

- We're seeing a shift where questions like ‘Why are we making this product? How is it handled? How can it be recycled? And what is its environmental impact?’ are becoming increasingly important, says Isabel Turesson, Sustainability Manager at Pinewood.

She emphasizes that the textile industry is carbon-intensive and faces major challenges.

- There’s no secret that the textile industry is complex. We’re fully aware that we operate in a sector that’s not sustainable and needs to change. We no longer want to be part of the problem – we want to be part of the solution.

The Green Deal’s impact on the textile industry

The Green Deal will result in many new regulations. All products will need to be mapped out, and textiles are among the first categories in line. Currently, the textile industry lacks a local recycling infrastructure – consumers often donate or throw away garments, which eventually end up being incinerated. With the Green Deal, the goal is to extend the lifespan of products and ensure that all textiles are recycled according to the EU Waste Hierarchy, which is part of the EU Waste Framework Directive.

The hierarchy includes five levels: prevention, reuse, recycling, energy recovery, and disposal. It's important to note that recycling is energy-intensive, so the aim is to postpone that step as long as possible. Ideally, a product should be used for a long time, repaired when needed, then passed on through second-hand markets to a new user, and only at the very end be recycled.

- The smallest environmental impact comes from using a garment for a long time. That’s why we consider longevity already at the design stage. Purpose and use matter. Pinewood focuses on long-term thinking, not fast fashion – well-considered collections with timeless garments that fit well with other items in our range, Isabel explains. We want to create products that are meant to be worn – often and for a long time. They serve no purpose hanging in the closet, then we’ve
just wasted resources for nothing.

All products sold within the EU will need to have a Digital Product Passport, which will likely be attached directly to the garment. It will include detailed information for both authorities and consumers about materials, production processes, carbon emissions, manufacturing, transport, and recycling
instructions.

- A garment consists of countless components, and the work involved in the Digital Product Passport gives us a deeper understanding of our value chain and its complexity, says Isabel. One key insight is the importance of working directly with our material suppliers. By reducing the number of intermediaries, we gain better insight into the processes and can ensure that the right materials are being used.

- Material production happens in several steps – from spinning to knitting/weaving to dyeing – and each step has an environmental impact. We aim to work with vertical suppliers who manage the entire production chain, as this gives us better control and transparency. The further down the value chain we can go, the more opportunities we have to ensure that the right processes are followed.

She adds that it's not just about choosing the right materials – it's also about choosing the right suppliers who align with Pinewood’s values.

- The biggest environmental impact comes from material production, especially the dyeing process. That’s why it’s crucial that our suppliers have systems in place that reduce environmental effects.

Challenges and opportunities ahead

Here at Pinewood we know that there’s plenty of work ahead to become more
sustainable.

- We know our value chain is complex, and we've realized there’s room for improvement. That realization has helped us identify where to focus our efforts going forward, Isabel says. This is a journey that requires transparency and the right partnerships. For me personally, it’s important that everyone in our organisation understands that there’s a person behind every component of our products – and that we have a responsibility throughout the entire value chain. That’s
what drives me – a genuine empathy and interest in every individual we
collaborate with.

EU Green Deal – a transformation that affects the entire industry

It is predicted that around 20% of companies will not meet the requirements of the EU Green Deal and will go out of business. Although the Green Deal primarily targets Europe, it will have global consequences, as many factories work with European brands.

- In 2025, we’ll raise our standards for suppliers and gradually phase out those who can’t meet them. At the same time, we’re actively working to find new partnerships and solutions. The Green Deal is one of our top priorities, and we see it as a chance to evolve and become even better, Isabel says.

The transition will require changes at all levels of the company.

- We need to rethink and find new ways to develop our products. Every department in the company will be affected, and we’ll need to work together to make the transition. Long-term thinking is our focus, and we’ve already begun exploring exciting collaborations that we look forward to revealing later this year, Isabel concludes.